Collagen: What It Is, Why It Degrades, and How to Actually Rebuild It
Science & Education

Collagen: What It Is, Why It Degrades, and How to Actually Rebuild It

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Renovation Clinic by Michelle Bueno Updated April 15, 20269 min read

Collagen is the most abundant protein in your body — and your skin loses 1% of it every year after 25. Our scientists explain the biology, the myths, and the only methods proven to rebuild it.

What Collagen Actually Is

Collagen is a structural protein organised into long triple-helix chains that form the scaffold of the dermis. Type I and Type III collagen are most abundant in skin and together provide:

  • Tensile strength and firmness
  • Elasticity and bounce
  • Volume and support

Why It Degrades

From age 25, collagen production declines by approximately 1% per year. This is accelerated by:

  • UV radiation — directly degrades collagen via matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs)
  • Glycation — sugar binding to collagen fibres makes them stiff and cross-linked
  • Chronic inflammation — cortisol suppresses collagen synthesis
  • Smoking — reduces fibroblast activity and damages existing fibres

What Actually Works

Clinically Proven

Microneedling creates micro-injuries that trigger a wound-healing cascade, forcing fibroblasts to synthesise new collagen. Studies show a 400% increase in collagen and elastin after a course of treatments.

Radiofrequency (RF) therapy heats the dermis to 40–42°C, denaturing existing collagen and stimulating aggressive new production. Results continue for 6 months post-treatment.

Retinoids are the only topical ingredient with robust RCT evidence for collagen synthesis stimulation.

Nutrition Support

  • Vitamin C is essential for collagen synthesis (cofactor for hydroxylase enzymes)
  • Glycine, proline, and hydroxyproline are the amino acid building blocks
  • Antioxidants reduce MMP activity

What Doesn't Work

Oral collagen supplements have limited evidence. The collagen molecule is too large to be absorbed intact — it's broken down into amino acids during digestion.

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Renovation Clinic by Michelle Bueno

Clinic Journal, Stockwell, London

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